Welcome to Margherita Peak - Unit 9

C1 Advanced · Multiple Matching · Ready for C1 Advanced 4th Edition, Macmillan Education

You are going to read an article about a climbing group’s experience of ascending Mount Stanley. For questions 1–10, choose from the sections (A-E). The sections may be chosen more than once.

The 2nd-century maps of Greek geographer Ptolemy were the first to label Uganda’s Rwenzori mountains as the Mountains of the Moon, yet unlike the moon, they are not remotely arid or colourless. However, since they convey such a sense of total inaccessibility, strangeness and wonder, it’s understandable how almost two millennia later, visitors are still referring to them in the same way. And so there we were, our intrepid group of seven, setting out to attempt the eight-day trek that would take us up Mount Stanley to Margherita Peak, accompanied by 18 support people. Although conditions were idyllic, I soon had a sense of foreboding – it stemmed from an exhausted party of Russian climbers we ran into on that first day. They had failed to conquer Margherita, despite attempting it in perfect conditions. Would we be as lucky with the weather, I wondered, and would we be skilled and strong enough to reach that sign at 5109 m saying, ‘Welcome to the highest point in Uganda’?

Unfortunately, one of those questions was soon answered: tropical heat gave way to heavy rain. Still, on the first day, I found the paths excellent considering that Mother Nature is determined to convert them into streams and rivers – they are a testament to huge effort and proficiency on the part of their builders. On day two we reached the fringes of the alpine zone. On day three, we were squelching through swamps as the trail took us up to 4000 m. It is at this point that altitude sickness often kicks in. The escape option involves completing a lower altitude circuit that skirts the main peak and reaches camp five a day ahead of schedule. This was not something we contemplated doing.

By day five, we were ready to tackle the Stanley Glacier. Crampons were strapped to boots, and the ice axes came into their own as we set off in two groups of four climbers, each linked by a 60 m rope. Our guides, Jeremiah and Sebastian, were supremely confident in finding the best route, but less wonderful in their technical guidance. We were perhaps halfway across the glacier when a desperate cry rang out as Rebecca nearly plunged into a deep crack in the ice. The guide wasn’t in a position to stop her fall, but fortunately Andrew and I managed to hold her on the rope. Crunching across the glacier was otherwise enormously enjoyable. Things got steeper as we approached the final rocky ascent, with the peak becoming more of a lung-bursting climb than we had anticipated. But as I stood puffing and panting at the top, the swirling mist parted sufficiently for a brief glimpse of nearby Alexandra Peak, which lifted my spirits further.

For all of the team, nearing the top of Margherita Peak was close to a religious experience. For teenagers David and Rebecca, and their dad Stephen Viljoen, this was an amazing bonding experience, an achievement sweetened by its sharing. Andrew Kenny, at 60-plus, had constant, nagging doubts about this adventure, yet won through with his dogged perseverance. I choked back tears as I stepped up to the very top, which represented vindication for two very gruelling attempts – in vain as it turned out – to climb Mount Kenya’s Batian peak in similarly poor weather.

On the way down, as we explored exquisite waterfalls, rushing rivers and silvery mists, I knew our hike was nearing its end. While comforts like hot showers and fresher food beckoned, I was already regretting the imminent parting from our guides and porters, with whom we had forged friendships. An endearing evening ritual at every hut along the trail was a pep talk from the guides – they’d praise our efforts and exhort us to maintain our excellent job of working together. In reality, in terms of cohesion, we must have been a guide’s worst nightmare as we tended to string ourselves out ahead, behind, and in between our guides and porters. Back home, my wife met me at the airport and asked about the trek. ‘It was wet,’ I said. ‘Wet, long, difficult and cold. But it was the achievement of a lifetime.’

Welcome to Margherita Peak

Margherita is Mount Stanley’s highest peak, offering stunning views at 5,109 m. John McKinnell was determined to see them for himself.

the group not considering an alternative and easier route

the realisation that his group caused problems for the people helping them

feeling that his success on this climb made up for earlier failures

his recognition of the skill involved in certain construction work

a reservation concerning the ability of the people assisting the group

his acknowledgement that a name is particularly appropriate

his melancholy feeling about the end of a relationship

being inspired by the view despite his physical exhaustion

his doubt about the likelihood of the group’s success

participation in the climb having a positive effect on a relationship

Available as a free printable PDF worksheet with an optional answer key.

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